Surf Culture Australia

The act of surfing, that is standing on the board and riding a wave, is easy enough if you can just get there. Its all the parts leading up to the standing-up part that makes learning to surf such a challenge.

First of all, you are dealing with a surface that is constantly moving and changing. Unlike skateboarding or snowboarding, the “ground” moves. You can’t stand on a non-moving surfboard on the non-moving ground and have any idea of how you balance in real conditions. You have to start surfing when the board is moving on a moving wave or you just sink.

That said, you don’t even get a chance to surf until you get to the line-up, which means you have to paddle. Paddling looks easy enough when you watch experienced surfers, but the first few tries are tricky. You need to make sure you are on the “sweet spot” of the board. When lying on the board your body should be evenly down the middle along the stringer. You will know you are too far forward if the nose of the board is underwater, or too far back if the nose is more than an inch or two out of the water.

To propel the board forward you will need to arch your back and use your arms like you are free-style swimming. Arching your back helps keep your weight over the center of the board. After the first few days your lower back and ribs will hurt, but eventually you build up enough muscle that your back and ribs don’t hurt. Take long, deep strokes and keep your fingers together and your hands slightly cupped. Some people like to bring their arms under their boards, but depending on the width of your board and length of your arms this may be impossible.

Maintaining control of your board should be an important goal for any surfer. The more you practice, the better you get. On days when it’s too small to surf, practice paddling to build up your muscles and stamina.